The first goodbye of the trek happened at the trekker's lodge at Tsochka, along our descent
from Goecha La to Yuksom.

"I have to go now, I have another group," Tula said to us with his right index finger
pointing upwards. "Walk slowly, you know?"

Tula is 24 years old, new to the trekking business, and it was only his 2nd time going up
to Goecha La. Hello was said with an unexpected child-like innocence and authenticity of feeling, given that he was already an adult. He has a flattish face with single-eyelids, which accentuates the sense of boyish innocence that he exudes. I could have mistaken him for a pimply-faced JC kid in Singapore.

Yet he is already eking out his living in his purple imitation Real Madrid shrit and fake Converses. As an assistant guide, he earns about 300 Indian rupees a day, which is under 10 Singaporean dollars. His English is limited and stuttering but he makes good and sincere attempts to communicate in English. At least he gets the most important phrases right, like "water" and "food".

When he left us he was carrying a cold. A few days back he had a headache. He is a new guide, new to the strenuous business of trekking, where there is seldom any rest or even a bath for immediately after our hike, our guides are taking fresh groups on new treks up the mountains.

A typical 24 year old Singaporean male should be either in university or grappling with his first office job.

I feel a certain ambivalence over Tula's situation. On one hand the work is very strenuous and taxing. On the other, Tula seems to take it all with much joy and serenity. He literally sings on the job. Also, he gets to experience nature all the time.

Tula revealed to us that his eldest brother has left Sikkim for Singapore. When I asked what his brother is doing now, Tula shrugs his shoulder to indicate he does not know. His brother might have decided to leave for greener pastures. Perhaps his brother, in search of greener pastures, was a bit too eager to cut ties with home.

For Tula at least, he is still at home, indefatigably leading intrepid hikers up to Goecha La and back, bursting randomly into traditional Nepalese songs which soars through the mountain mist while doing so.